Vitamin C Benefits for the Skin

So, lets talk about vitamin C.  In 2005, I got my hands on a vitamin C cream that changed the way I look at vitamins for the skin.  The product was from Neova and it was their only vitamin C cream at the time.  I don't think they carry it any longer, but when I put it on my skin for the first time, I was amazed at the silky creaminess.  It was really rich and almost felt a little siliconey.  It glided right on. It was moisturizing and a great base for my make up.  But the biggest effect I noticed was that my skin was glowing.  The more I used it, the more my skin had this youthful healthy glow.  I loved it.  Then I was able to try the SkinCeuticals CE Ferulic which became an all-time favorite of mine.  I love vitamin C!  There are soo many more benefits to it than what I first experienced.  The more I use it the more I love it.  I mean, it's no miracle cream or anything, but I really see awesome results when I use it.

One thing that a topical vitamin C can do for your skin is fight against free radicals because it's such a strong antioxidant. 

What is an Antioxidant?

An antioxidant is a molecule that neutralizes damaging free radicals. 

Free radicals are unstable molecules that destroy the structure of the skin and accelerate premature aging. (You know that gross look in the air that sometimes comes around winter...INVERSION!  Polution,,smoke from cigarettes, car exhaust, the sun, etc... ) They are generated by UV exposure, pollution and other damaging environmental elements and can be a chief cause of fine lines, wrinkles and hyperpigmentation.

Because vitamin C is used so much in cosmetics now, it can get confusing because there are many forms, each with its own name formulated in varying amounts. Here’s what you need to know:

• The forms of vitamin C that are proven most stable and effective are: ascorbic acid, L-ascorbic acid, ascorbyl palmitate, sodium ascorbyl phosphate, retinyl ascorbate, tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate, and magnesium ascorbyl phosphate.
• A proven range for vitamin C efficacy is between 0.3% and 10%.
• All antioxidants, including vitamin C, are vulnerable to deterioration in the presence of air and light. If a product containing antioxidants does not come in airtight, opaque packaging, don’t buy it!

These are the different kinds of vitamin C as listed on the ingredients on lables., and how you can tell if they are good for your skin or not.

• L-Ascorbic Acid (also called ascorbic acid): this is basic, untouched vitamin C. This form is from citric acid and may be undesirable to use on your skin – if it is extra sensitive. It is often used in exfoliates, because of the acid.
• Ascorbyl palmitate: derivative of vitamin C. It is the most common form used in skin care, being less acidic. 
• Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate: also a derivative; it is rapidly gaining in popularity as an ingredient. It s also less acidic and more stable than vitamin C; but may not often have a high enough concentration in many products to cause collagen production.
• Tetrasubstituted lipophilic ascorbates: these are probably the forms of vitamin C that you will start to see in the very near future. Cheaper than some of the other, they also may have the same effects on collagen production as vitamin C.

So what can vitamin C really do?

Here’s what a well-formulated, stably-packaged product with vitamin C can do for your skin:

• More Concentrated than nutritional Vitamin C
• Rapidly absorbed so it won’t rub or wash off
• Greater penetration to the epidermis and dermis, greater benefit
• Neutralizes free radical damage caused by UV light, smoke, and air pollution
• Allows skin cells to remain healthy and able to perform their necessary functions
• Enhances the protective barrier function of the skin
• Helps moisturize and increase skin hydration
• Stimulates collagen production
• Restores elasticity
• Prevents premature skin aging
• Protects against damaging UVA and UVB rays
• Reverses the appearance of photoaging
• Decreases fine lines and wrinkles
• Lightens and brightens the skin for more even tone
• Fades brown spots
• Helps reduce oiliness and restore sebum balance
• Helps to normalize problem skin (pimples, blackheads, and other problems associated with oily skin)
• Anti-inflammatory
• Can lessen redness and sunburn if applied before (or after) sun exposure (Reference 1)
• When combined with sunscreen, can enhance the power of sunscreens (Reference 2)

WOW!  That's a lot of REALLY good things that a great vitamin C cream or serum can do for your skin! Now you can go out and find a really great vitamin C product for your skin!  Remember that vitamin C always does your skin better when applied in the morning.   
I firmly believe that just as vitamin C heals us from ailments from the inside out, it can heal us from the outside in as well!  So be sure to swallow your vitamin C daily as well!

Cheers!

*Winter Glowing Skin*

So, I'm totally into things that make my skin glow and shimmer right now!  I have to say that one of my wish list items came true in October.  I had to have it for my wedding, and I really LOVE LOVE it!  Its the Tarina Tarantino Sparklicity in Pure.  Its absolutely beautiful!  It's made almost entirely of a shimmery reflex material. It seriously sparkles like real diamonds but not overkill!  I wanted it to create beautiful eyes for my wedding, and also to highlight my cheeks a tiny bit.  I also was able to put it on some of the little nieces too...it was really so much fun and I'm glad I purchased it.  Oh, and it has no parabens!

So on that note, the first item on my wishlist is the Urban Decay Naked Palette! Its a universally flattering palette that features 12 eyeshadows with a distinctly Urban look.  I have seen the wonders that this little palette creates and it looks magical. I can't wait to get one!

The next item I think I need to have in my make up bag is the NARS Illuminator. This light-reflecting liquid glides on to refresh and enhance the complexion, creating a shimmering incandescence. I am so excited to try this stuff! I think I will add just a tiny bit to my liquid foundation to see what kind of glow I can get. I love the backlight look some illuminators can give and I hope this lives up to all the hype!

And of course the last item is another Urban Decay goodie.  Its the Urban Glow Cream Highlight.  Urbanglow Cream Highlight is packed with coconut oil and vitamins A, C and E that smooth, moisturize, and protect the skin.  It gives a really pretty youthful dewy glow.  I can't wait to try this one too.

So there it is...   four great products to make your skin look fresh, glowing, healthy, and beautiful during these drab winter months!  Let me know if you've tried these products and how you like them!  I'd love to hear your experience! 

Dry Cracked Feet?

Everyone knows that dry cracking heels is no fun!  It hurts to put pressure on your heels after they have cracked!  They snag on the sheets in bed and scratch legs and everything they touch.  They're unsightly, embarrassing, and uncomfortable!  Usually the summer brings lots of dry cracked heels, but winter isn't kind to dry skin either!  I have had several friends ask me about how they can solve this issue.  This is the way I combat dry cracked heels!

I always follow these directions just before bed. 

1.  Get a good rough file.  You can use a pumice stone too.
2.  File your feet where all the rough spots are; heels, sides of the feet where the big toe and little toe are, and bottoms of pads.
3.  Soak your feet in warm soapy water or let them moisten in the shower. 
4.   After moistening feet, apply Udder Cream or Bag Balm.  I swear by Bag Balm for dry cracked feet!  It healed mine so fast! 
5.  Apply cotton socks to feet and wear them to bed.  Your feet will feel so soft and supple in the morning. 

 Follow these directions every night until your cracks are completely healed!  And don't stop using lotion on your feet before bed every night. 

If this doesn't help you, send me a note and we'll talk!

If you have a severe case, you can use a glycolic acid peel on your heels.  This is recommended to be done by an esthetician or chemical peel specialist.  A glycolic facial cream can also be used.

If you know of any other tips or ideas to keep heels supple and beautiful, send me a message! 

Accutane or Not?

I wanted to share some things about accutane.  Isotretinoin is used to treat severe recalcitrant nodular acne (a certain type of severe acne) that has not been helped by other treatments, such as antibiotics. Isotretinoin is in a class of medications called retinoids. It works by slowing the production of certain natural substances that can cause pimples to form.

There are some huge controversies out there whether it's safe to use or not.  Some of the side effects are pretty serious.  Some are just more or less annoyances.  Some effects include an increase in cholesterol, depression, suicidal thoughts that come with the depression, dry skin and lips, bone aches, etc....  I read an interesting article recently about some studies they have done and are finding that said caused depression isn't actually a side effect of the accutane, but more a side effect caused by having acne itself.  The other likely side effects are tolerable or treatable and mostly temporary.  I want to share my experience with accutane.

My acne was getting to the point where I always had a huge break out.  My break outs were large cysts and nodules that would ache.  I couldn't pop them to relieve the pressure.  They were red and swollen and were almost disfiguring my face.  I was definitely going into a depression.  Here I am, a skin care specialist.  I'm supposed to have clear skin!!!  I had tried microdermabrasion, chemical peels, light therapy, very aggressive acne kits, and also mild kits for sensitive skin, maybe thinking I was doing too much.  Whatever I did, nothing worked, and it got worse and worse.  I didn't want to go to the gym.  I didn't want to go shopping.  Going to work was the hardest thing.  Luckily I had my own office, I could get there, shut my door, turn off the big florescent light and just work with low lamp light.  I didn't want anyone to see my face.  I was so embarrassed!  I had a hard time wondering why my boyfriend still wanted to be around me looking so hideous.  It was such a hard time of life.  I never wanted to try accutane because of the severe side effects.  I didn't want to jeopardize my health.  I put some deep thought and prayer into how I could get rid of this problem.  Accutane kept coming to mind.  I had friends who had been on it and they were fine, loved it, and had no more acne.  I started looking for a dermatologist that would possibly prescribe it, however I was open to any other suggestions.  I made the appointment and met with an awesome dermatologist in Riverton.  She examined my skin for about 5 minutes, asked me a few questions, and said that there would be no reason for me to not take accutane.  I was the perfect candidate.  I was so happy, I felt like there might be some hope.  I had to wait about a month and a half to do some testing before I could actually start taking the medication.  I was able to start taking it September 2010.  For the first few days, I was almost over aware of my body, waiting for any possible side effect to show it's head.  About 4-5 days after starting, I came down with a severe back ache.  I thought it was the flu.  It felt like a really bad case of the body aches.  After a few weeks, I was sure it was the accutane.  I started taking vitamin E and glucosamine chondroitins for the arthritis.  It helped lube my joints, but it still wasn't as bad as the mental pain of having a face full of huge swollen painful cysts.  The arthritis pain lasted pretty much the whole 6 months of treatment and for about 3 months after stopping.  My skin got pretty red, dry, and flakey shortly after starting, and I lived on Aquaphor and chap stick!  My body is back to normal as far as the arthritis goes, and my face is zit free.  I get an occasional pimple here and there, and they go away in a day.  I feel like I've gotten my life back.  The 6 months of treatment wasn't fun, but I would do it again for sure, if I ever have acne the way I did before.  I do recommend it for people who have severe acne and who are good candidates for the treatment. 

There are a few things that people need to be aware of!  The first and foremost, is that Isotretinoin's best-known and most dangerous side effect is birth defects.  You must use at least two forms of birth control while on accutane if you are sexually active, or will possibly be sexually active at any time during treatment.

Before taking isotretinoin or accutane,

• tell your doctor and pharmacist if you are allergic to isotretinoin, any other medications, parabens (a preservative), or any of the ingredients in isotretinoin capsules.
• tell your doctor and pharmacist what prescription and nonprescription medications, vitamins, herbal products, and nutritional supplements you are taking or plan to take.
• tell your doctor if you or anyone in your family has thought about or attempted suicide and if you or anyone in your family has or has ever had depression, mental illness, diabetes, asthma, osteoporosis (a condition in which the bones are fragile and break easily) or other conditions that cause weak bones, a high triglyceride (fats in the blood) level, anorexia nervosa (an eating disorder in which very little is eaten), or heart or liver disease.
  
• do not breast-feed while you are taking isotretinoin and for 1 month after you stop taking isotretinoin.
  
• plan to avoid unnecessary or prolonged exposure to sunlight and to wear protective clothing, sunglasses, and sunscreen. Isotretinoin may make your skin sensitive to sunlight.
• you should know that isotretinoin may cause changes in your thoughts, behavior, or mental health. Some patients who took isotretinoin have developed depression or psychosis (loss of contact with reality), have become violent, have thought about killing or hurting themselves, and have tried or succeeded in doing so. You or your family should call your doctor right away if you experience any of the following symptoms: anxiety,sadness, crying spells, loss of interest in activities you used to enjoy, poor performance at school or work, sleeping more than usual, difficulty falling asleep or staying asleep, irritability, anger, aggression, changes in appetite or weight, difficulty concentrating, withdrawing from friends or family, lack of energy, feelings of worthlessness or guilt, thinking about killing or hurting yourself, acting on dangerous thoughts, or hallucinations (seeing or hearing things that do not exist). Be sure that your family members know which symptoms are serious so that they can call the doctor if you are unable to seek treatment on your own.
• you should know that isotretinoin may cause your eyes to feel dry and make wearing contact lenses uncomfortable during and after your treatment.
• you should know that isotretinoin may limit your ability to see in the dark. This problem may begin suddenly at any time during your treatment and may continue after your treatment is stopped. Be very careful when you drive or operate machinery at night.
• plan to avoid hair removal by waxing, laser skin treatments, and dermabrasion (surgical smoothing of the skin) while you are taking isotretinoin and for 6 months after your treatment. Isotretinoin increases the risk that you will develop scars from these treatments. Ask your doctor when you can safely undergo these treatments.
• talk to your doctor before you participate in hard physical activity such as sports. Isotretinoin may cause the bones to weaken or thicken abnormally and may increase the risk of certain bone injuries in people who perform some types of physical activity. If you break a bone during your treatment, be sure to tell all your healthcare providers that you are taking isotretinoin.

What I'm Using Right Now

Right now, my absolute favorite skin care product I'm using is the DermaNew Facial Rejuvenation System.  I use it about 2-3 times a week.  This thing is amazing!  I've never felt my skin cleaner and more refreshed and rejuvenated!    It's awesome!  I cleanse once and then use the system.  I've never used the Clarisonic that is super popular, but I'm guessing it's almost identical in the way it cleans.  I think the Clarisonic bristles actually twist, but the DermaNew uses a vibrating mechanism.  The bristles are for sensitive skin, but I definitely felt a very good exfoliation, almost as good as microdermabrasion!  Awesome!

My second favorite product I'm using is the Kinerase C8 Peptide Serum.  This product has a good strong dose of vitamin C for your skin, and tons of other super healthy antioxidants for your skin, which I feel I desperately need being in the smoggy winter inversion in Salt Lake City!  Our air quality is filled with all sorts of toxic goo and my skin needs all the protection it can get from the free radicals in the air.  Not only does it protect my skin, but it also brings a really healthy glow to my skin!  That kind of glow you get when you work out really hard and your skin is flushed.  I love it!  

Lately I haven't been using super expensive cleansers. I tried the L'oreal Go 360 Clean Anti-Breakout Facial Cleanser.  It's good... highly scented.  It smells like a heavy manly soap.  I thought it was odd considering it should be a light cleanser for acneic skin.  It also made my skin feel cool and a tad bit tingly, which I didn't mind, but I just didn't think the scent and the feeling went together.  However, it did clean my make up off really well and left my skin feeling fresh. 

The cleanser I'm using right now is the Neutrogena Oil-Free Acne Wash Pink Grapefruit Facial Wash.  It smells awesome and is a great wake-me-up in the mornings.  It foams up really quick and washes my skin really well.  I always feel clean with it.  It takes a little more effort to remove my make up with it, but I feel it works well.  I really like the vitamin C it contains.  (I think vitamin C has been one of my favorite ingredients for a long time).

The facial cream I'm using mainly for morning and night is the Glycolix Elite Facial Cream (Fortified).  It also has a ton of antioxidants and and vitamin A or Retinol.  I feel like it is a very light hydration but it has good exfoliation benefits while keeping my skin moisturized.

 The eye cream I'm currently using and LOVING right now is Replenix Eye Repair Cream.  It contains a trans-Retinol and  Green Tea Polyphenols.  It targets fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness, dark circles, discoloration, and loss of firmness, elasticity and hydration.  It really is an AWESOME eye cream.  It doesn't feel too heavy but my eyes look plumped and hydrated.  It has a great brightening effect. 

These are the products in my beauty bag right now.  I'm sure they'll change in a month from now, but for now.... I like the combination!  They work well together!  Let me know if you have any questions about any of these products, or products that you're currently using!  I'd love to hear about them!